The bar world is undergoing a profound transformation, driven by new habits (such as remote working, which admittedly saved the lives of hundreds of workers but heavily impacted the business of many others), but above all by the search for authenticity and economic pressures (62% of Italians cannot make it to the end of the month, and this alarming figure doesn't come from us, but from Eurispes).
And while a segment of venue owners and bartenders are competing to enter rankings that focus more on visibility than substance, there are others who work simply to generate revenue. We do not want to open the debate on rankings and how positioning within them works, because it is obvious to everyone how things move; however, in our view, it would be ridiculous to set ourselves up as champions against something we are all part of and from which we all benefit.
THE PEOPLE
“We have four or five customers who have been coming every single day since we opened—whether for a coffee or an aperitivo, it is their routine.”
And while we chase visibility (which everyone likes, otherwise we would have done something else, we just need a bit of awareness every now and then), we walked into CAFFÈ DEI PORTICI. This venue in Bergamo has been open for 15 years and is still family-run (yes, Mr. Vincenzo is still there early in the morning delivering pastries instead of enjoying his retirement), and it served us a healthy slice of humble pie. Because after a lifetime working as a manager in a transport company, Vincenzo Pennacchia approached the bar world 15 years ago and became the pillar of this place, working behind the scenes, managing relationships with suppliers and staff.
“To the outside world, this might not bring prestige, but it is essential for keeping a machine this complex running from 6:00 AM to 2:00 AM. He is the true backbone of I Portici.”
Perhaps the real success of certain places comes from the people, from the souls who experience them every day, and CAFFÈ DEI PORTICI is exactly that: the elderly lady drinking her coffee, the office workers having lunch, friends having an aperitivo, and someone who, instead of enjoying retirement, keeps a family dream alive.
NEIGHBORHOOD BARS
In an era of incomprehensible menus, where you often find yourself flipping through entire pages without understanding a thing, it is fascinating to find a place where you can still drink the classics (because, fundamentally, when we go to a bar, we want to drink whatever the h*ll we want) while moving towards twists that get straight to the point, clear and direct—without overcomplicating things into rocket science.
“The recipe is very simple. It is fresh, floral, slightly bitter, and very easy to drink, perfect both as an aperitivo and at any time of day. Over the years, it has followed me everywhere I’ve worked: Barcelona, Singapore, Australia, London, Dubai, and now here in Italy. It is a simple, balanced cocktail that practically everyone likes.” – Adrià
A neighborhood bar should not be confused with something old and provincial, but rather seen as a place that turns its local territory into a strength and welcomes tourists in the exact same way a venue in the center of Rome would.
“We are lucky enough to serve breakfast to many local B&Bs, so it is important for us to have a drink program that speaks of 'Made in Italy' but remains international—a gathering point for everyone.”
THE ARTISTIC VEIN
This place speaks of art, it speaks of music, and perhaps the question we should ask ourselves is: isn't hospitality about making people feel good? And to make people feel good, shouldn't we offer beauty? The kind of beauty you find in a vinyl record, in a smile, and above all, in attentiveness.
“We are returning to the essentials: making people feel good, without frills, authentic, less sophisticated but real. That sense of security a bar must give you, where you can feel at ease every day without having to ask for anything else.”
In a historical period defined by speed and often by egocentrism at its highest levels, it is beautiful to walk into a place where someone notices if your water glass is empty, where someone still asks how your day went and smiles at you. Rankings are important at the exact moment we value our successes, because it is crucial to appreciate our achievements so they can inspire us to reach new ones; they become a problem when those rankings turn into an obsession. The kind of obsession that stops you from seeing who is right in front of you, that inability to pause and listen to the customer, that desire to make the day better for the person across from you—because hospitality is encapsulated in this.
“There is no longer that love of saying, 'It's a slow night, someone just walked in, and I'm happy.' We used to stay open until seven in the morning when Michelin-starred chefs arrived with their kitchen brigades; we had fun making people feel good… that is the difference I no longer see today.”
If I don't feel good in a place, I don't go back and I don't recommend it. This is the best word-of-mouth you could ever have. No social media, no article, no ranking will ever be more powerful than this.
